Vitamin C
Key Points:
The multiple benefits of using Vitamin C for your skin can not be disputed. A powerful antioxidant (and this really, really matters), proven to protect against the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR), reducing pigmentation and a key component in collagen production.
What to buy: Minimum 8% and up to 20% Vitamin C. Owing to its chemically unstable nature how it is packaged actually makes a difference. Opt for an opaque and airtight pump dispenser and store it out of direct sunlight for a fresh dose of active Vitamin C with every application.
Apply to a clean face every morning and follow with your SPF 50+.
The Breakdown:
Get rid of the notion that you are chasing an aesthetic by investing in lotions and potions. Vitamin C is all about skin health (with a pleasing aesthetic benefit on the side).
Lets start by talking about Free Radicals.
FREE RADICALS are highly reactive and unstable molecules that are made by the body naturally as a byproduct of normal metabolism. Free Radicals can also be made by the body following exposure to environmental factors such as ultraviolet radiation (UVR), tobacco smoke, chemicals and pollution.
Their instability and high reactivity is the result of the presence of an ‘unpaired’ electron - although their lifespan is often a fraction of a second - they will scavenge from healthy molecules to make a pair. When a free radical uses an electron from a previously healthy molecule it now becomes a new free radical and the cycle continues. Natures way of managing free radicals is through ANTIOXIDANTS. Antioxidants act as electron donors and will safely donate an electron to a free radical thus preventing one being scavenged from a healthy molecule elsewhere.
When you have too many free radicals scavenging electrons from healthy molecules (as happens in the skin following exposure to UVR, pollution, tobacco smoke exposure or some chemicals) and not enough antioxidants to act as donors (which is more likely as we age owing to a reduction in their numbers), this creates OXIDATIVE STRESS. When this happens cells get damaged and/or die. Oxidative stress effects all components of the cell, including proteins, lipids and DNA. A good visual representation of this would be to watch the changing shape, consistency and appearance of a pear left in the fruit bowl over many weeks. In terms of our own skin ageing, oxidative stress promotes age-related changes: the formation of fine lines and wrinkles, a loss of skin firmness and elasticity, hyper-pigmentation and promotes dehydration.
Tell me more about antioxidants and where can I get them from?
Vitamin C is the most abundant antioxidant in the skin with high levels noted in both the epidermis (thin top layer) and the dermis (chunkier middle layer). Unlike in plants and some other animals, the human body is unable to synthesize Vitamin C and therefore depends on dietary intake (citrus fruit and green vegetables) to maintain its stores. However, its absorption in the gut is dependent on an ACTIVE TRANSPORT MECHANISM - which basically means that instead of being able to drift across the gut lining wherever it fancies - it has to queue up at a special gate and wait its turn. The transit time of food passing through the gut means that anything still queuing after a certain time will not get absorbed, and will instead be excreted by our bodies. This limits the effectiveness of increasing our dietary intake when attempting to increase the levels in our body. With regards to increasing its presence and thus its role in the skin, it needs to be applied directly (topically).
Great, pass me that orange and let’s get rubbing!
Here is where the whole process becomes more of a challenge :
The top layer of the epidermis - the Stratum corneum - is not a lover of water based things - the chemical term for this is ‘hydrophobic’. To get anything down into the part of the skin where it can work effectively, it needs to breach this top layer.
Vitamin C is available in a number of active forms:
L-ascorbic acid
Ascorbic-6-palmitate
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
L - ascorbic acid is the most biologically active (i.e.when it gets to where it needs to be its good at doing its job) and the most well studied BUT - it is water loving (hydrophilic) and unstable (can be easily deactivated if not looked after well in transit) so getting it beyond that ‘water-hating’ stratum corneum in a good enough condition to still do its job is a bit of a challenge.
This is where ‘formulation’ comes into play (a term that gets branded about a lot in advertising). When L - ascorbic acid is formulated to a lower pH thus increasing its acidity - it can penetrate the Stratum corneum far more effectively.
For biologically significant results a Vitamin C concentration of 8% is required. Studies have shown that a concentration above 20% does not improve efficacy and may in fact cause increased irritation possibly due to the increased presence of a more acidic ingredient.
Improving the formulation of Vitamin C remains big business in the dermaceutical world and is definitely something that will evolve in the coming years.
Beyond the looking glass.
Vitamin C is the most powerful antioxidant available for skin protection. In clinical and laboratory studies its has been shown to improve all parameters of photo-damage (damage caused by UVR) and even predisposition to skin cancer - in particular a reduction in solar radiation induced erythema and ‘sunburn cells’.
p53 is a cellular protein whose production is induced by UVR in response to structural DNA damage. Its level can therefore be measured as a marker of solar radiation induced cellular damage. Topical application of Vitamin C has been shown to reduce the levels of p53 upon radiation, thus demonstrating the photo-protective effects of Vitamin C.
The activation of a protein called AP-1 leads to increased production of enzymes that degrade and damage collagen following UVR exposure. Vitamin C has been shown to stop AP-1 from working, thus limiting collagen damage.
The photo-protective effect of Vitamin C is complimentary to the ‘sunscreen effect’ provided by the application of sunblocks, the latter absorbing or reflecting UVR but not primarily neutralising free radicals.
As if that wasn’t enough, there’s more…..
Vitamin C is not just a weapon against UVR damage and free-radical exposure. It is essential for the normal production of collagen in our skin, and is involved in activating important cross-links within the collagen molecule to provide stability and longevity.
Vitamin C also plays a role as an anti-pigmentation agent. Its interaction with copper reduces the production of melanin - the chemical responsible for hyper - pigmentation in our skin.
Go forth and purchase a Vitamin C serum ( and a good SPF 50+!). Keep in mind my buyers tips so that you actually get and maintain the active ingredients for the full life of the product.
I currently stock Teoxane RHA Vitamin C Serum - A new generation of Vitamin C (8%) combined with Teoxane cross-linked hyaluronic acid to combat pigmentation, loss of firmness and a dull complexion. It is suitable for all skin types, is a non-photosensitive formula (so is less sensitive to light breakdown) and has airless packaging for optimal preservation of the formula!