Collagen
Key Points:
Collagen Supplements WORK. And there is a large body of research demonstrating this consistently - and most of this research was carried out on women (hoorah….this almost never happens!).
What to buy: Hydrolysed collagen with a low molecular weight. Preferably marine collagen. Preferably in liquid form.
Dose - once daily at 5g - forever!
The Breakdown:
So you have read the bullet points but you want to know more……below are the hows and whys.
Collagen is the MOST ABUNDANT protein in our bodies, found in multiple places. Collagen acts as a structural protein in the skin - found in the middle layer (the dermis). It provides STRENGTH, ELASTICITY and STRUCTURE.
Its is at its highest level in youth (see diagram)
It works with ELASTIN to maintain elasticity and hydration (big protein molecules attract water).
It attracts FIBROBLASTS (a type of cell) which then go on to produce more collagen - thus encouraging wound healing.
How do our bodies make Collagen?
The building blocks of all proteins are called AMINO ACIDS. When amino acids join up into a chain they create PEPTIDES. When lots of amino acids join up they form a POLYPEPTIDE. When three POLYPEPTIDES wind around each other they create COLLAGEN.
When Collagen is broken down - the below diagram works in reverse.
What happens to Collagen when we age?
In ageing, our collagen production decreases at a rate of approximately 1-1.5% per year. In females, this process is amplified by oestrogen loss - resulting in a further 30% loss of collagen in the five years following menopause.
What is proven about Collagen Supplements?
An abundant amount of high-quality research data supports Collagen Supplementation to be a SAFE, NON-INVASIVE AND AFFORDABLE way to enhance skin health, quality and appearance.
If we want the collagen that we ingest in supplement form to be absorbed in the the stomach, to reach the bloodstream and to be fit for use within the body (or to be ‘bioactive’) then it is best delivered in PEPTIDE form
PEPTIDES are created by HYDROLYSING ( to ‘lyse’ means to ‘split’) collagen. This HYDROLYSING or breaking the collagen down into smaller pieces has been found to be a critical determinant in collagen supplement efficacy (in other words - it won’t work well if it isn’t hydrolysed!).
Small pieces weigh less and in the lab this is referred to as having a LOW MOLECULAR WEIGHT - and this is another thing to check for when buying effective collagen supplements.
Marine Collagen demonstrates the most robust clinical effectiveness. So preference this (over bovine - cow, or porcine - pork) where able.
Collagen Supplements - the next generation
A TRIPEPTIDE is a very small peptide made up of (as the name would suggest) 3 amino acids together. More specifically, tripeptides that contain a certain combination of amino acids have been found to increase precision in collagen supplementation owing to their ability to target the skin and switch on the fibroblast cells - thus creating an increase in collagen production.
Owing to their very small size - they are rapidly absorbed and preferentially shuttled to to skin. It is also claimed that Tripeptides can encourage hyaluronic acid production increasing the moisture in the skin. Finally, they may also decrease the activity of the chemicals that naturally exist in our body which are known to breakdown collagen.
These next generation supplements are therefore ‘turbo-charged’ by being able to do more than just provide the building blocks for collagen. So keep an eye out for them!
Is it safe?
A systematic review is deemed the highest level of evidence about something in the research world. A systematic review on collagen supplements found NO ADVERSE EFFECTS to taking collagen supplements in any of the research projects that it looked at. So, I think we can confidently say that collagen supplements are safe!
How to take it:
Take an oral daily supplement of at least 5g consistently for at least 8 weeks but ideally forever! Most of the available evidence was based on studies where people took 5g per day so this is the advised dose. It is not harmful for the dose to be above 5g.
It is most effective in a liquid preparation - this is in relation to the dose of collagen (or peptides) that remain available once absorbed into the bloodstream.
The benefits were seen to remain for up to 30 days following stopping taking collagen, and finally - as with most things aesthetic….consistency was found to be the key to the best results!
Can I recommend a collagen supplement?
I am currently in talks with Skinade with the hope of becoming a stockist.
Skinade is a British company and has recently won multiple awards for their products. Of particular interest to me for my clients is Skinade - Better skin from within. This is a liquid product designed using all of the best evidence as written above for collagen supplementation using low molecular weight marine collagen, but with the added benefits of multiple micronutrients.